I was there a year or two ago and only noticed a rather dead downtown. No different than thousands of other places. There was some cool, old architecture - I do remember that.
Yes, Middletown is hurting. Downtown has been rough longer than the rest of the city, but it's 'down' for sure. But yes, there are some nice looking, old buildings & churches down
there.
If anyone is familiar with the downtown area(not sure why you would be, but anyway), if you haven't been to the City Center Mart area, parts of it have been razed, and it is unrecognizable. Streets are now where mall area used to be, and most stores gone, but a couple stores(once indoor, in the mall), are now outdoors. Odd.